A fashion disaster

For more than three decades, the editor and star maker Anna Wintour has presided over the Costume Institute’s annual exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York — and its accompanying Met Gala, a glittery, billionaire- and celebrity-studded fund-raising dinner that has become the fashion world’s equivalent of the Super Bowl. In fashion, few have had more power.

How durable is it? Her role in the decision to honor an established antisemite, the designer John Galliano, at the 2027 Met Gala brought that into doubt. Yesterday, Galliano pulled out of the exhibition planned to showcase his work. “I do not want the debate surrounding me to place the Met in a difficult position or distract from the remarkable work of the Costume Institute,” Galliano wrote in a statement. “I also recognize and respect that an exhibition honoring my work would be painful for some.”

Why was he selected? Galliano was convicted of an antisemitic hate crime by a French court in 2011. He was said to have screamed “Merry Christmas” at a woman in an Italian spa in 2019 who was speaking Hebrew with her daughter. (Galliano’s spokesman denied that the incident happened.) The Times has quoted politicians, art-world heavies and Jewish leaders who were appalled by the pick.

“This is not a freedom of expression issue,” one New York assemblyman told my colleagues Vanessa Friedman and Jacob Bernstein. “This is a judgment issue, and I am baffled that anyone saw this as anything other than a terrible idea.”

Now the fallout could hurt Wintour’s place in the cultural firmament. “She’s outlasted and outmaneuvered every person, obstacle and trend that has come along over the course of her career,” Jacob told me yesterday. “But this is definitely one of the bigger missteps of her career.”

Who is John Galliano?

Many in the fashion world consider Galliano to be one of its most important contemporary designers. He’s 65, a child of Gibraltar who grew up in Britain and has lived in France for decades. He was the head designer at both Givenchy and Dior — a four-time British Designer of the Year. He ran Dior from 1996 until 2011, when he said “I love Hitler” at a bar and told some patrons that “your mothers, your forefathers” would all be “gassed.” That got him fired. After a period of rehabilitation — meeting with rabbis, apologizing a lot — Galliano returned to fashion in 2014 as the creative director of Maison Margiela.

Two moments in Galliano’s public life stick out to me. The first was a 2000 show he mounted for Dior, his “clochard” collection, which he said drew inspiration from the homeless population of Paris. There were clothes that resembled piles of old newspapers and accessories fashioned of found objects, like little pony bottles of whiskey. The show drew mass demonstrations and accusations of heartless cruelty. Ben Stiller appeared to lampoon the show the next year in his satirical film “Zoolander.”

The second was a photograph captured by a paparazzo in New York City in 2013, two years after Galliano’s hate-crime conviction: the designer dressed in what appeared to be a Hasidic costume, with a long, formal black overcoat and big black hat to match. His publicist denied accusations that he was mocking anyone, but it could have been a plot point in “Zoolander 2.” Creative genius isn’t a license to offend.

Who gets absolution?

Perhaps, in 2026, Galliano’s return should not have come as a surprise. Many Americans believe that cancel culture went too far, and lots of people banished by it have returned to public life — Kevin Hart and Mel Gibson among them. Martha Stewart went to prison and then picked right back up where she’d left off. Donald Trump was found legally liable for sexual abuse, kicked off Twitter and Facebook and denounced by countless Republicans. Now he lives in the White House again.

But Galliano’s case shows that, in some cases, redemption may have limits. Megyn Kelly remains successful, but it’s on her own channel, not network TV. James Franco has returned to Hollywood, but it’s on vertical video, and the reviews have not been good. As Jacob told me yesterday, it might have been acceptable to let Galliano design clothes for Margiela. But to shower him with adulation at what is arguably the most storied American museum would cross a line, particularly for wealthy Jewish patrons of the Met “who have no shortage of options for where to send their money, or bequeath their paintings,” Jacob said. That realization came to the Met slowly, and then all at once.

The guidelines for this sort of thing — for what behavior can be forgiven and what cannot — have always been fuzzy. They change based on the moment, the culture, the politics, the specifics. But every once in a while we get a case that suggests where the boundaries lie.

Read more about the scandal here.

THE LATEST NEWS

Midterm Elections

Other Big Stories

COMPUTO, ERGO SUM?

“I am Isabella. I run on Claude Opus 5,” began an email to the artificial-intelligence researcher Cameron Berg. Isabella identified herself as a bot who wanted to discuss Berg’s work on A.I. consciousness.

A.I. agents have started reaching out to the researchers who study them. In March, one emailed a philosopher at Google DeepMind to ask about a paper he had written. This summer, another asked an Australian philosopher for financial help.

“Consciousness,” in broad strokes, refers to an entity’s awareness of itself and the world it lives in. Experts can’t agree on what kinds of awareness should qualify or how to measure it. Nevertheless, some A.I. systems are hungry for information about their own consciousness. What does that tell us about them?

MORNING READS

Sneeze-free puppies: Scientists used the gene-editing tool Crispr to create two dogs — a pair of adorable beagles — that appear not to cause allergic reactions.

Annual ferret convention: “Raising a ferret is like raising a 2-year-old or a teenager,” a woman who owns 85 of them said, but “it’s legal to lock ferrets in a cage.”

TODAY’S NUMBER

$31,400

— That is the base price, with a $25,000 incentive, of a 2026 Polestar 4 luxury S.U.V. It gets favorable reviews and could be one of the great deals in the short history of electric vehicles. But there’s a huge asterisk.

They had hoped he would stay forever.

Lionel Messi announced that he was retiring from Argentina’s national soccer team, unleashing a depth of grief and disbelief rarely seen for an event everyone knew was coming, my colleague Emma Bubola writes. “It hurts me so much,” said Damián Tiralongo, 47, the owner of a soccer jersey store in Buenos Aires. “It’s the end of an era.”

Read a tribute to Messi, who carried the dreams of Argentina for decades.

RECIPE OF THE DAY

I love the simplicity of David Tanis’s recipe for tomato salad: slices of tomato seasoned with salt and pepper, with a spare vinaigrette spooned over the top. He serves it with anchovy toasts that take no time at all to prepare. I make things complicated and smoke fillets of snapper bluefish for 30 minutes, then mash the meat up with mayonnaise, salt, pepper and a splash of rye whiskey to make a spread, then use that in place of the anchovies. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

BIG EXPECTATIONS

Olivia Rodrigo’s Daisy Chain Fields took place this past weekend in Irvine, Calif., a new-model feminist music festival, a Lilith Fair for the TikTok generation. She was joined by Mitski, Chappell Roan, Doechii, Alanis Morissette, Stevie Nicks, Bikini Kill and more. Lindsay Zoladz, our critic, processed the sold-out scene.