Oyster stocks have plunged in the Chesapeake. This resident wants to bring them back

John Consoli marvels at oysters. “I think I’m more enthusiastic about something that’s like a rock than anybody else could possibly be,” he says.

Ari Daniel/NPR


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Ari Daniel/NPR

John Consoli stands on the edge of his pier, which juts out from the southern tip of Maryland’s Kent Island and into the Chesapeake Bay. He leans over and hoists a mesh the size and shape of a pillowcase out of the water.

It’s packed with oysters. He manages to get it onto the pier. “These are brand new oysters from this year,” he says. “When I got them, they weighed nothing. And this is just three months of growth. The net is chock full, I can hardly pull it up.”

Once he gets his breath back, Consoli marvels at these molluscs. “I think I’m more enthusiastic about something that’s like a rock than anybody else could possibly be,” he says with a big grin. “I really can’t think of many more creatures that do the good that oysters do.”

Oysters underpin the Chesapeake’s coastal and estuarine ecosystem. Each adult filters up to 50 gallons of water a day. Cleaner water leads to a healthier bay and more sea grass. “That helps crabs and other organisms,” says Consoli.

Plus, oyster shells are a habitat unto themselves. “Because of all the nooks and crannies,” he explains, “a lot of small fish and crabs live and eat amongst them and hide, so it creates a biodiverse environment. I even found a seahorse, which was incredible. I’ve never seen a seahorse in my life!”

Robots scanning for oysters

Oyster reefs used to abound in the Chesapeake, but overharvesting decimated their ranks — by over 99% by 2011, according to one estimate. This monumental shift in the bay contributed to poorer water quality and less habitat for other species.

Oyster farming in the Chesapeake has expanded in recent years, despite environmental and disease challenges, says Ryan Carnegie, a biologist at the Virginia Institute of Marine Science. He adds that wild oysters have also made a partial comeback, helped by better management and investments in restoration. But, says Elizabeth North, a fisheries oceanographer at the University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science, “current oyster populations are likely still a fraction of these historic populations.”

Consoli’s goal, therefore, is to be a caretaker of sorts, stocking the bay with ever more oysters and looking after their wellbeing. He floats them just below the surface where he says the nutrients are concentrated to help them grow quickly. And although his oysters aren’t intended for eating, a cleaner bay does mean better habitat for those that are harvested commercially.

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